NEW WAVE CULINARY ART
EL CELLER DE CAN ROCA
The molecular gastronomy wave was not sparked by the Roca brothers at El Celler de Can Roca, nor was the trend of plating art, but they were early in, and they have elevated it and pushed it further than predecessors, earning accolades as the #1 World’s Best Restaurant, as well as other prestigious awards.
Joan Roca, the eldest brother, who serves at El Celler de Can Roca’s Chef de Cuisine, studied in Escola d'Hostaleria de Girona, where later he became a teacher. Josep Roca, the middle brother is the award-winning sommelier whose unique wine pairings have amazed and delighted even the most sophisticated oenophiles. Jordi Roca, the youngest brother, earned laurels as the World’s Best Pastry Chef, among others. They all incorporate both science and art in their work at their 3-star Michelin rated restaurant.
Dishes, presented as canvases, sculptures, and even as trees. They are painted with vibrant purees and sauces, flounced with aromatic foams, graced with mini wonders that surprise each of your senses.
The Roca brothers have culinary genius in their blood. They grew up eating, playing, and studying at their family’s restaurant, just adjacent to where El Celler Can Roca now stands, nourished by Catalan cuisine, guided by their grandparents and parents. Their proper surnames are Roca i Fontané, using the Spanish naming custom of including the paternal family name, Roca, and maternal family name, Fontané.
Three rocks anchor each dining table, forming a minimalist meaningful centerpiece. Each rock represents one of the brothers, whose surname means ‘rock’ in Spanish. The restaurant can only seat a lucky 45 people at a time. Thirty chefs are on hand to make sure they’re happy they came. At least one of the three brothers is present for every service.
El Celler de Can Roca’s menu is cutting-edge and always changing. Each dish is complex and creative, although inspired by the Rocas’ simple childhood memories and local ingredients. They take traditional recipes and play with them, as if they were curious children, scientists, and avante garde artists. The brothers have participated in the Harvard University Science and Cooking Program.
You might experience “Frozen olives,” that you pluck from a little bonsai olive tree, for an intense explosion of flavor. Freeze-dried oyster shells serve up bracing oyster tartare. Taste a sampling of traditional Basque dishes in miniature bite-sized interpretations. And if a dessert infused with “essence of old book,” sounds strange and terrible, your bravery in tasting it anyway will reward you with sweet surprise.
In a never-ending quest for new ideas, the Rocas plan to open a chocolate factory and boutique hotel in Girona next year. They also recently founded Roca Recicla, an innovative zero-waste initiative, in partnership with product design studio Andreu/Carulla. The program recycles the restaurant’s plastic and glass waste, turning it into beautiful objects, such as honeycomb shaped stools, innovating servingware, and sculpted utensils. Some are used in the restaurant, some are sold, in limited editions, to their guests.
The Roca brothers are ahead of the curve in how they manage their culinary empire as well. For example, they routinely provide free psychology and wellbeing sessions for all of their employees. They also work as Goodwill Ambassadors for the United Nations Development Program.
Intrigued? You can see more of El Celler Can Roca beautiful platings in Visions Gourmandes - l'Art de Dresser, by Philippe Germain. You can purchase Roca Recicla creations here. You can book your El Celler Can Roca experience here.
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- “Blown sugar beet, filled with beet foam, plated on cocoa meringue dirt, with beet sprout and raw beet slices,” created by Jordi Roca. Courtesy of El Celler de Can Roca. Girona, Spain.
- Photo: Culinary art, with black truffles & almonds, created by Joan Roca. Courtesy of El Celler de Can Roca. Girona, Spain.
- Photo: Plated culinary art, created by Joan Roca Courtesy of El Celler de Can Roca. Girona, Spain.
- Photo: “Grilled sole, paired olive oil, pine nuts, orange, bergamot, and fennel,” by Joan Roca. Courtesy of El Celler de Can Roca. Girona, Spain.
- Photo: Sampling of Basque dishes in miniature, created by Joan Roca. Courtesy of El Celler de Can Roca. Girona, Spain.
- Photo: “Seafood, white beans, vegetables & edible flowers,” by Joan Roca. Courtesy of El Celler de Can Roca. Girona, Spain.
- Photo: Marinated sardines, garlic, parsley, spicy oil herbs, & edible flowers, by Joan Roca. Courtesy of El Celler de Can Roca. Girona, Spain.
- Photo: “Peas, Iberian pork tail, lemon, mint, and licorice,” by Joan Roca. Courtesy of El Celler de Can Roca. Girona, Spain.
- Photo: “Mackerel, with pickles and roe mujol,” by Joan Roca. Courtesy of El Celler de Can Roca. Girona, Spain.
- Photo: “Green tea by Bulgari,” created by Jordi Roca. A dessert from the perfume series. Courtesy of El Celler de Can Roca. Girona, Spain.
- Photo: Plated culinary art, created by Joan Roca. Courtesy of El Celler de Can Roca. Girona, Spain.
- Photo: “Green Salad,” by Joan Roca. Courtesy of El Celler de Can Roca. Girona, Spain.