10 MOST BEAUTIFUL BIG WAVE TRIPS
When waves become mountains, big wave surfers are in their glory, scaling waves up to 80 feet high, for the thrill of riding them, on surfboards, into the shore.
The energy these monster waves generates is powerful, both physically, and emotionally, for all who ride and all who watch them. They are the mother of mad rush.
Big wave surfers paddle into or are towed onto waves at least 20 feet (6.2 m) high. Big waves require skill, bravery, and special surf boards, known as "guns" or towboards. Some big wave surfers like larger, longer boards which allow them to paddle fast enough to catch the wave and offer a more stable, albeit somewhat slower ride.
Jet skis tow big wave surfers into mammoth waves getting them up to optimal speed for the best rides. They allow for light, 7 ft boards, which are faster and easier to maneuver. Tow-in surfing lets surfer ride waves well over 50 ft high.
The most prestigious big wave contests in the world, include the Eddie Big Wave, the Billabong XXL awards, and Red Bull’s invitational surf contest at Jaws Peahi, known as Mavericks.
Every year, World Surf League (WSL) Big Wave Awards, sponsored by TAG Heuer, celebrates the world’s top surfers and the planets biggest waves. Hosted by surfer Strider Wasilewski, in "Surf City" aka Huntington Beach, California, the ceremony hands out prizes for:
- "XXL Biggest Wave"
- "Biggest Paddle Wave"
- "Tube of the Year"
- "Best Overall Performance"
- "Women's Performance"
- "Wipeout Award"
- "Ride of the Year"
The current world No. 1 big wave rider in the world is Billy Kemper.
While Pipeline, in Oahu, is perhaps the most famous big wave meccas, we’re sharing some other stellar spots to check out the extreme extraordinary waves. They’re worthy of a visit, if only for the adrenaline and mega-magnificence.
Tavarua is a heart-shaped island resort in Fiji, close to its main island, Viti Levu. It is surrounded by a coral reef. There are seven main surfing breaks: Cloudbreak, Restaurants, Tavarua Rights, Swimming Pools, Namotu Left, Wilkes Pass, and Desparations. This whole place makes world-class waves.
Cloudbreak, is the most famous wave pattern that breaks over the reefs here. It is a rare wave that grows more perfect as it grows in size. It also increases in speed as rolls into flawless barrels, making it quite a heady thrill to ride.
Peʻahi, on the north shore of Maui, in Hawaii, boasts a big wave surfing break, known as Jaws. Coincidentally, the name Peʻahi means "wave," as in “hand wave,” in native Hawaiian language. (“Nalu” is the word for waves of water.)
The Jaws surf break is roughly three miles east of Pāʻia. It earned its name for unpredictability and its somewhat dangerous giant waves, reminding surfers of the shark attack in the film, Jaws.
Big wave surfers love the wave sizes at Jaws, which can exceed 60 ft. (18 m) during the months of December to March. The extreme size of the waves is caused by the structure of an underwater ridge which has been studied by scientists.
The Billabong XXL awards, given to big wave surfers, often have several nominated from the Jaws break in the "biggest wave" category.
Check out Jaws Maui, a cool book of big wave surfer autographs, by Charles and Leslie Lyon.
Teahupoʻo is a village on the south-east coast of the island of Tahiti, in French Polynesia. It is known for the surf break , with its massive heavy, glassy waves. Waves run from 2 to 3 m (6.6 to 9.8 ft), up to 7 meters (23 feet) nigh.
The annual Billabong Pro Tahiti Surf Competition, is held here. Bodyboarders love it too. On August 17, 2000 Laird Hamilton is credited with surfing the "heaviest wave" ever ridden, documented in the film Riding Giants.
Sunset Beach, on the North Shore of Oahu, Hawaii enjoys winters of big waves, while in summer, the water is relatively flat and calm.
Each winter, perfect waves curl with West-to-Northeast swells coming from the North Pacific. Last December (2017) saw wave episodes with at least 30' to 40' waves, that went on for several days.
Today Sunset Beach is home to the prestigious Vans Triple Crown of Surfing, which is part of the World Cup of Surfing. It also holds contests such as the Pipe Masters and participates in the WSL Championship Tour.
The fine grey sand beach of Punta de Lobos, Chile, is big wave surfing and kiteboarding nirvana. Its waves roll in between two and three meters high. The beach is edged by cliffs which are 50 metres high. Its otherworldly rocks, Rocas de Punta de Lobos, are beautiful sea-lions hangouts.
The Wedge is a surf break located at the extreme east end of the Balboa Peninsula in Newport Beach, California. It’s known for its large wedge shaped waves that can tower up to 30 feet (9.1 m) high. These monsters are shaped by the rock jetty on the west side of the Newport Harbor entrance, which serves to reflect approaching waves to create secondary reflected waves which meet and amplify following waves.
The Wedge breaks largest during intense Southern Hemisphere storms or large tropical cyclones, primarily during the summer & fall months.
Nelscott Reef, off the coast of Lincoln City, Oregon, creates a reef break, offering the only place on the Oregon Coast with the right conditions for big wave surfing. The ocean sends swells up to 25 to 50.’ Check out the annual Nelscott Reef Big Wave Classic, founded by local surfer John Forse.
Newquay, a sweet seaside resort town in Cornwall, in southwest England, is known as the surf capital of the UK.
Fistral Beach is the best spot of all, producing a steady supply of giant hollow waves. The beach hosts several prestigious international surfing competitions, including Boardmasters Festival, for surf + music celebrations.
Cribbar reef breaks waves up to up to 20 feet (6 m). Towan, Great Western, Tolcarne, Crantock, and Watergate Bay also pack some powerful punch breaks.
Mavericks is a wonderful waves destination in northern California, about 2 miles (3 km) from shore outside Pillar Point Harbor, just north Half Moon Bay. The break is caused by an unusually shaped underwater rock formation.
Waves often crest over 25 feet (8 m) here and can top out at over 60 feet (18 m) after a winter storm, powerful enough to set off seismometers. That’s why big wave surfers have it on their short list, especially those vying for glory at the annual invitation-only surfing contest.
Guiness World Record waves happen at Nazaré, in Portugal. Rodrigo Koxa surfed an 80 foot (24 m) wave there just last November (2017) and won this accolade for the biggest wave ever surfed. The record is also claimed by Hugo Vau, just this past January (2018), surfed a 35-meter-high wave, which was referred to as "the big mama".
The monster waves are boosted by the underwater Nazaré Canyon, which creates constructive interference between incoming swell waves.
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- Photo: by Rogelio A. Galaviz C. “Tahiti surfing.” Teahupo’o, Tahiti. Courtesy of World Surf League.
- Photo: by Mike Holloway. “Wave watching at Nazaré.” Nazaré, Portugal.
- Photo: by Beau Lebens. “Big Wave Surfing At Jaws (Maui).” Peʻahi Jaws. Maui, Hawaii.
- Photo: by Minnie Vuong, Xvolution Media. “Cloudbreak Superswell Todd Rosewall.” Tavarua, Fiji. Courtesy of Jeff Rowley.
- Photo: by jai Mansson. “Pe’ahi, Dec 7th Maui, Hawaii.” Peʻahi Jaws. Maui, Hawaii.
- Photo: by Minnie Vuong, Xvolution Media. Jeff Rowley, Big Wave Surfer. Pe’ahi Jaws in Maui, Hawaii. Courtesy of Jeff Rowley.
- Photo: by Minnie Vuong, Xvolution Media. Jeff Rowley, Big Wave Surfer. Pe’ahi Jaws in Maui, Hawaii. Courtesy of Jeff Rowley.
- Photo: by Björn Groß. “Teahupo’o.” Teahupoʻo, Tahiti.
- Photo: by Rob DeGraff. “Sunset Beach Surfer, North Shore, Oahu, Hawaii.” Oahu, Hawaii.
- Photo: by Daniel Ramirez. “Surfing on the North Shore - near Sunset Beach.” Oahu, Hawaii.
- Photo: by Ignacio Andree Muñoz Flores. “SURF PUNTA DE LOBOS.” Punta de Lobos, Chile.
- Photo: by AMaleki. “Wedge - Surfing Series Color.” Newport Beach, California.
- Photo: GL Jackson. Untitled. Nelscott Reef, Oregon.
- Photo: by Patrick Warren. Evie Johnstone. Fistral Beach. Cornwall, United Kingdom.
- Photo: by Steve Jurvetson. “Step Into Liquid.” San Mateo, California.
- Photo: by Luis Ascenso. “Nazaré - Praia do Norte.” Nazaré, Portugal.
- Photo: by Luis Ascenso. “Praia do Norte, Nazaré, Portugal.” Nazaré, Portugal.
- Photo: by MarkYourWaves Surf. “Belgas pato.” Nazaré, Portugal.
- Photo: by Tom Walker. “Action from the Wedge at Newport.” Newport Beach, California.
- Photo: by yepyep. “Nazaré kite surfing.” Nazaré, Portugal.