BEAUTIFUL BEADS CHANGE LIVES
Beauty is everywhere in southern Kenya, where the Maasai people have coexisted with elephants, lions, and other wild neighbors, since their migration from Lake Turkana in the 15th century. These nomads are one of the best-known African tribal nations: “Maasai-itis” has described a western passion for Maasai culture. Their warriors clad in striking ochre-colored cloaks, their men and women bedecked in an opulent pile-on of brightly beaded necklaces, bangles, and body adornment, exude their own special brand of beauty. And though their way of life is changing—by the privatization of land which has severely limited their cattle grazing lands and has changed the ecology of the region—Maasai Tribe leader William Kikanae explained to us that he is optimistic of new development opportunities available to the tribe.
Kikanae is nearly 8,000 miles away, at a certain fine clothing shop in New York’s Meatpacking District that just launched a collection of leather shoes, bags, and accessories embroidered by communities of Maasai women in the Kenyan savannas. That shop is Pikolinos and the bead-embroidered collection has been a labor of love for Maasai women: They are finally reaping benefits internationally for their traditional embroidery skills, earning wages that allow them to improve their quality of life, while attempting to maintain their traditional lifestyle.
Though Maasai beadwork is created according to ancient tradition, each woman has her own style. The ceramic and glass beads used now by the Maasai have been sourced from different regions since their appearance in southern Kenya. The earliest examples, found along the coast, reflect Phoenician and Chinese influence. Later, Portuguese, Indian, Arab, and American traders introduced their own glass versions. In the last decade, the beads have mostly been sourced from Eastern Europe.
The Maasai accessories for sale at Pikolinos are made of leather imported from Spain. The Maasai women then encrust them with multi-colored beads and felt. Each color means something in Maasai culture. Black means Africa; white means milk; green means nature; red means blood; blue signifies the sky; and yellow invokes the sun, a symbolism that brings to mind the colorful landscape that inspires the Maasai women as they work.
Accessories are made. Lives are transformed. The future looks better already.
